Area: Eunos / Geylang / Kembangan / Paya Lebar

Predominantly a Malay-populated area, as indicated by the Malay-sounding names of its neighbourhoods, District 14 tells the culturally rich history of Singapore from its red-light district Geylang and urban neighbourhoods of Eunos, Paya Lebar, and Kembangan.

H1: Geylang

Geylang is said to receive its name from the Malay word geylanggan, which means “to twist or crush”, referring to the activities of extracting coconut milk - an important cooking ingredient used by locals to thicken curries in Malay-Chinese (i.e. Peranakan) cuisine. The name comes from the many processing factories for a coconut plantation in Geylang back in the days. In addition, as a formerly Malay-dominated area, the neighbourhood used to be filled by Malay and Indian entrepreneurs opening businesses such as bike & motor repair shops and selling commodities such as iron, rubber, and plastic.

The main trunk road, Geylang Road, is divided into lanes (or “lorongs” in Malay language, hence its names) that are named according to its numbers, such as Lorong 18, Lorong 20, and so on. Sometimes, for convenience, the names are abbreviated as Lor, followed by their respective numbers. Today, this neighbourhood is one of the few that still retains its historic looks, unlike the majority of Singapore that have undergone redevelopment over the years. Notorious reputation aside, Geylang is also known as a working-class neighbourhood populated by migrant workers.

Geylang is Singapore’s prime red-light district best known for its karaoke lounges, adult shops, and of course, its notorious ‘red lantern’ houses. In fact, it was so popular that a Singaporean-Thai docudrama film was created about this area in 2007, called Pleasure Factory. The film offers a frank depiction of subjects traditionally hidden in Asian society, such as prostitution, same-sex relationships, and explicit male nudity, which is highly controversial and unusual for the conservatively cultured Southeast Asia regions.

This part of Lion City is the largest designated area for prostitution, which explains the hundreds of brothels that litter this area which is easily identified by their large houses numbers painted in bright red, especially in Lor 18 and Lor 20 street. Around the neighbourhoods, you can easily spot foreign sex workers coming mainly from nearby countries such as Thailand, Vietnam, China, and Indonesia. As an international business hub, Singapore clearly has a huge demand for prostitutes, thus attracting poorly educated women with low-paying jobs back home to move to Singapore and gain higher income by performing sex work.

Despite the notorious reputation, there are many things in Geylang that are unexpected to the public. One of them is that there are actually more illegal cigarette sellers rather than sex workers. While most people associate Geylang with commercial sex, the real vice in the area is said to be the illegal and shady cigarette sellers offering unlicensed stuff at discounted prices. Secondly, brutal gang fights and thieves are not uncommon. While it is indisputable that Geylang is certainly less safe compared to the main city area, and the fact that it is home to many clan associations that were once considered dangerous, gang fights are actually very rare. Contrary to popular beliefs, most of these clan members spend their whole day playing mahjong or practicing lion dances, drinking beers and chatting on the roadside. When fights do occur, usually it is caused by drinking problems and involves two individuals getting irritated by each other’s words.

There is an abundance of things to do when visiting Geylang. One of them is Serai, a Malaysian neighbourhood whose name comes from the extensive cultivation of serai (Malay for lemongrass) in the area. The region was once a trade emporium, which helps to explain the abundance of bazaars, shops, and food centres nearby. Geylang Serai Market is one of the busiest markets in Singapore that consists of two floors. On the first floor is a bustling wet market selling mainly Halal ingredients and Middle Eastern products, such as cosmetics, spices, batik (traditionally coloured textiles from Indonesian origins), and scarves. On the second floor is a hawker centre selling some of the best traditional Malay cuisines, such as asam pedas stingray (sour and spicy stingray stew), beef rendang, and goreng pisang (banana fritters). Aside from the market, you can also visit The Malay Village, an exhibition site offering a glimpse into the life of Malaysians during the Kampong Days before the 1960s.

If you’re one of the culture lovers and explorers looking to immerse yourself in tradition and religious architecture, be sure to pay a visit to Sri Sivan Temple. The Hindu temple was built in the name of the presiding deity, Lord Shiva, who is known to have an untamed passion that leads him to extreme behaviors. The temple reflects the Indian culture that has settled in Singapore since the old days and has undergone reconstruction several times due to the damage caused by World War II.

Among foodies, Geylang Road is famed for its plethora of incredible food choices that live up to the food haven’s reputation. One of the most popular one is G7 Sin Ma Live Seafood, selling G7 Frog Porridge and other varieties of frog dishes. Although the idea of frog meat-based delicacies may be sickening for some, it is actually a very popular dish in Singapore, Malaysia, and Indonesia. Another famous frog porridge restaurant at Geylang is Eminent Frog Porridge, serving some other exotic frog dishes such as fried frog legs, gong bao frog, and chili crab.

Singapore cuisine is popular for its noodle dishes, and Geylang is no exception. One of the best stalls for wanton mee is Koung’s Wan Tan Mee in Lor 13. Be sure to try their char siew that is ranked among the best in Singapore. However, note that the queues tend to get really long at this stall, especially during peak hours. Another is Swee Guan Hokkien Mee at Lor 29, one of the stalls that still maintained the traditional cooking method of using charcoal fire, which gives a memorable wok hei fragrance on their noodles. Last but not least, a Singaporean legendary stall is Lor 9 Beef Kway Teow, selling one of the best beef kway teow in Singapore. For those who don't know, kway teow is a famous noodle dish from Southeast Asia, notably in Indonesia, Malaysia, Singapore, and Brunei.

Another popular restaurant in Geylang that has opened for generations is Tan Ser Seng Herbs Restaurant. Since 1946, this family-run restaurant has been serving claypot turtle soup, a hearty bowl of soup simmered with over 20 herbs and spices that helps to create the thick and nutritious broth. This truly nutritious dish is said to lower blood pressure, improve kidney function, boost virility, and give your skin a healthy collagen boost. While the sound of Claypot Turtle Soup may bring some environmentalists to rage for endangering wildlife species, you can rest assured knowing that their meat comes from a local Singaporean company that imports freshwater softshell turtles from an Indonesian farm, hence the turtles are prepared exclusively for consumption. For this exotic bowl of soup, be prepared to cash out more money compared to your average hawker food. Their claypot turtle soup cost from S$24 to S$65, depending on the size.

Geylang is served by Aljunied MRT of the green East-West Line and Geylang Bahru MRT of the Downtown Line.

H2: Eunos

Eunos, also known as Geylang East, is another Malay village that was once known as Kampong Melayu. It was later renamed to Kampong Eunos in honour of its founder, Mohammad Eunos Abdullah, who was the chairman and co-founder of Singapore Malay Union. The area was established in the late 1920s, when Eunos made an appeal to the British government, asking for a plot of land exclusive for the Malays community. The area is well-served by public bus routes and Eunos MRT station. The main neighbourhood largely contains HDB estates at cheaper prices, thus drawing residents from mostly young locals without families. Meanwhile, the eastern part of Eunos near Kembangan area is populated by condominiums and terraced houses, which attract families and expatriates due to lesser crowds and more community living.

Eunos is nowhere short of eateries as there are many local hawker centres dotted around the neighbourhood, which include famous hawker stalls serving local favorites such as hokkien mee and soy chicken rice. Kim’s Fried Hokkien Prawn Mee is a familiar stall amongst locals, run by Mr. Tan Kue Kim who infamously wears a gold Rolex while frying the mee. There’s also Hai Kee Soy Chicken Rice, a family-run eatery that dates back to 1959 selling their popular soy chicken rice. For vegans and environmentally conscious eaters, there’s a restaurant founded in 2010 named VeganBurg that prides itself as the world’s first 100% plant-based burger joint. Their burgers are cholesterol-free, antibiotic-free, and GMO-free to fulfill the restaurant’s mission of promoting environmentally sustainable diets and redefining the concept of nutrition in the fast-food space.

Eunos acquires a rich mix of tradition and modernity. The neighbourhood is home to the intricately designed Darul Aman Mosque that was built to replace the demolished Aminah Mosque of Geylang. There is also a famous landmark on the intersection between Jalan Eunos and Sim’s Avenue. The landmark is a Buddhist temple, called Mangala Vihara, which today functions as a religious education centre offering Buddhist studies, youth Sunday school, and even Buddhist college. Also known as the Shrine of Blessings, this temple was built around the year 1959. One of the main attractions is the beautiful and aged Maha Bodhi tree planted on the temple grounds, which was brought from Anuradhapura, the ancient city of Sri Lanka.

H3: Kembangan and Paya Lebar

Kembangan, which means “expansion” in Malay, is another Malay village in this district. In the 80s, this area used to consist of two villages Kampong Kembangan and Kampong Pachitan, however, they were both demolished to make way for area redevelopment. Amenities in this area, such as Kembangan Plaza and Kampong Kembangan Community Club, are far more limited compared to the nearby Eunos and Chai Chee estate. There are currently no public government schools in the Kembangan estate and most of the schools in the area are now defunct. The modern days Kembangan is a high-end residential area sandwiched between Bedok and Geylang, and it comprises many residential areas and high-rise condo. The estate is served by Kembangan MRT station of the East-West Line.

Paya Lebar is another area in Singapore whose name means “big swamp” in Malay, identical to Toa Payoh, whose Hokkien name also means big swamp. It is a region that has undergone major urban renewal and is now characterized with technology and advancement, as it bustles with offices and high-tech factories. The former SingPost building is currently being converted into Singapore’s first e-commerce mall, and there are still many shopping malls under development, which is expected to transform Paya Lebar into a massive retail hub. The area is one of the participants of the pilot programme Business Improvement District (BID), where stakeholders will be able to work together to form a collective vision that taps into the creativity and resources of everyone to strengthen the district. Paya Lebar is served by its own MRT Interchange that has two operating lines, East-West (green) and Circle (yellow).

The area used to be an extensive and notorious squatter’s district whose inhabitants engage in cultivating market produces, such as pig and poultry rearing. One of the first inhabitants to colonise this area was Richard Owen Norris, who bought and moved into the area in 1865. However, it has since developed into a Malaysian-dominated area, as indicated by the abundance of Malay shops, markets, and celebrations. During the Ramadan period, you can visit Hari Raya Bazaar which offers a wide variety of food, curtains, carpets, and other traditional Malay goods.

In 1955, an international airport known as Singapore International Airport was built to replace Kallang Airport. It is located at Airport Road in Paya Lebar and is now known as Paya Lebar Air Base. In 1981, Singapore International Airport was moved to Changi Airport, and Paya Lebar is then closed to civil traffic. Today, it has converted into a military air-force base and served various flying units of United States Air Force and U.S. Navy, as well as being current home to C-130 Hercules. It was often chosen to host Air Force One during U.S. Presidents’ visitations, such as George W. Bush in October 2003 and November 2006, Barack Obama in November 2009, and the latest one President Donald Trump during the 2018 North Korea-United States summit.

H4: Property Insight in District 14

In Q2 2018, condominiums located in D14 achieved a quarterly historical record for their average psf price, increasing by 27.34% from the previous quarter. Notable developments in the area include Park Place Residence and Avant Residence, both of which are located within 5 minutes walk from Aljunied MRT. The Red Light District Geylang is a good property choice too, as the reputation gives the condos its cheaper rent and sales price despite the government’s recent effort to “clean up” the area of illegal sex workers.

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